Hope it helps!<\/p>\n
<\/h1>\nSafety First<\/h1>\n
Some things to keep in mind…<\/p>\n
- \n
- Know the resistance your device can handle.<\/li>\n
- Know the amp load of your build.<\/li>\n
- Know the amp rating on the battery you’re using (much more important with mechs)<\/li>\n
- Have a meter or some other method of checking your resistance before firing.<\/li>\n
- Watch our for heat!\u00a0 In our world, heat is a great thing, as long as that heat is at the coil.\u00a0 In our world heat is a bad thing, if that heat is found anywhere else.\u00a0 If your switch is getting hot, if your battery is getting hot, if your device is getting hot (outside of the atomizer of course) you’ve got an issue somewhere.\u00a0 Best bet… STOP USING IT and figure out the problem.<\/li>\n
- Regulated devices offer protection.\u00a0 Mechanicals do not.\u00a0 If you’re concerned, you can always add a fuse, such as the VapeSafe<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
<\/h1>\n
What You’ll Need (not all will be needed for every build)<\/h1>\n
- \n
- Resistance Wire – Typically Kanthal or Nichrome.<\/li>\n
- Non-Resistance Wire – for those builds that require it.\u00a0 Not all do.\u00a0 Examples of devices that require it would be the Odysseus and the Ithaka.<\/li>\n
- Wick – There are many different materials and thicknesses.\u00a0 Use what works best for your device, build, and taste.\u00a0 Examples:\n
- \n
- Cable<\/li>\n
- Ceramic<\/li>\n
- Cotton Hemp Wick<\/li>\n
- Ekowool<\/li>\n
- Nextel<\/li>\n
- Organic Cotton Balls<\/li>\n
- Silica<\/li>\n
- Stainless Steel Mesh<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n
- Wire clippers.<\/li>\n
- Micro screwdrivers.<\/li>\n
- Needle nose pliers.<\/li>\n
- A torch.<\/li>\n
- A rebuildable device.<\/li>\n
- A device to fire it.<\/li>\n
- A battery.\u00a0 Batteries have different amp ratings.\u00a0 More information on this can be found below.<\/li>\n
- IMPORTANT<\/strong> – A multimeter or other device that you can check the resistance of your build on.\u00a0 A build with a short or a very low resistance could lead to device damage, battery venting, or worse yet, personal damage!!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
<\/h1>\n
Shorts Happen!<\/h1>\n
When rebuilding the potential exists for a short.\u00a0 It happens.\u00a0 This is why it’s strongly recommended that you have a multimeter or some other device that will allow you to check your resistance before firing it on your device.<\/p>\n
Regulated devices, such as the ProVari will protect you from shorts by displaying and error message and not firing.\u00a0 Mechanicals, however, will not.\u00a0 They will go on happily trying to fire your shorted coil.\u00a0 This is not a good thing.\u00a0 It could potentially lead to your battery venting.\u00a0 This is why it’s best to check the resistance of your build before firing it, especially on a mechanical.<\/p>\n
<\/h1>\n
The Wick<\/h1>\n
What should you use?\u00a0 Well, that depends (but doesn’t it always \ud83d\ude42 ).\u00a0 It depends on what you like, what you feel comfortable in working with and using, and what works best in the device your building.<\/p>\n
Personally, cotton and microcoils go in many of my build these days.\u00a0 The coils last and last and cotton can be easily removed, the coil dry burned, and then re-wicked when the time comes.<\/p>\n
You may have a question about what stainless steel mesh to use in your Genesis style atomizer.\u00a0 First, note that it doesn’t have to be mesh.\u00a0 You could certainly use cotton or another type of material.\u00a0 Take a look at this build from my buddy Dino…<\/p>\n
![\"1552960_512823538830868_2112094918_n\"](\"http:\/\/www.tasteyourjuice.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/1552960_512823538830868_2112094918_n.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nBut if you are going to use mesh, I’ve had the best luck with 400 or 500.\u00a0 But the rule of thumb seems to be…<\/p>\n
- \n
- Try lower density mesh (Ex: 200, 270, 325) for thicker e-liquids.<\/li>\n
- Try higher density mesh (Ex: 400, 500, 635) for thinner e-liquids.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
<\/h1>\n
Why Oxidize?<\/h1>\n
Ok, so you’ve seen us torch our mesh.\u00a0 Why do we do that?\u00a0 The mesh is stainless steel, stainless steel is conductive.\u00a0 Wrap a stainless steel mesh with resistance wire and you have one giant short.\u00a0 Oxidizing or torching the wick builds up a layer of non conductive oxidation which allows you to fire your coil without shorting it against the mesh.\u00a0 Shorts on mesh are often referred to as “hot spots”.\u00a0 To be plain, these are a pain in the rebuilder’s ass and one of the greatest challenges of setting up a Genesis style atomizer with a mesh build.<\/p>\n
There are a few methods you can try to get around this, or fix it should it occur.\u00a0 Here are some ideas.\u00a0 Most of them are contained in the video, “Building a Genesis” which can be found below.<\/p>\n
- \n
- Start off with an oxidized mesh wick.<\/li>\n
- Keep your leads as close to the connection points as possible without having the wick touching those points.<\/li>\n
- “Play” with your coil while firing to get rid of the hot spots.<\/li>\n
- Use the “Pulse Method” to get rid of hot spots.<\/li>\n
- Use the Peter K method to build your coil.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
<\/h1>\n
The Resistance Wire<\/h1>\n
Although Nichrome can be used, I do prefer Kanthal.\u00a0 I personally like the taste better, especially when the coil it breaking in.<\/p>\n
I’ve been purchasing A1 Kanthal off of eBay from Temco.<\/p>\n
Kanthal A-1 is a ferritic iron-chromium-aluminium alloy (FeCrAl alloy) for use at temperatures up to 1400\u00b0C (2550\u00b0F). The alloy is characterized by high resistivity and very good oxidation resistance.<\/p>\n
Typical applications for Kanthal A-1 are electrical heating elements in high-temperature furnaces for heat treatment, ceramics, glass, steel, and electronics industries.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
This is the wire that heats up and vaporizes the e-liquid.\u00a0 It comes in different gauges.\u00a0 Rule of thumb…<\/p>\n
- \n
- Lower the wire gauge = thicker the wire = lower resistance over a given piece of wire.<\/li>\n
- Higher the wire gauge = thinner the wire = higher resistance over a given piece or wire.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
So if you want to build a 1 ohm coil, you’ll need more of a 28 gauge wire than you would a 32 gauge.<\/p>\n
How do you know what to use?\u00a0 Depends on the build, what you like to work with, and how much room you have.\u00a0 For example, if you want to build a 2 ohm coil and you have a TINY place to work in, 28 gauge may not be right for you.\u00a0 You may need to use a smaller diameter wire in order to get your resistance up to where you want it in the space you have available.<\/p>\n
Personally, I’ve been using a lot of 28 gauge these days.\u00a0 It works well in the devices I have, and the increase in diameter makes it snap less easily in the event I’m working out hot spots and wind up with a short.<\/p>\n
What about braided or ribbon wire?\u00a0 They can certainly be used.\u00a0 Personally, I’ve experimented with them, but have never seen the need for them so I don’t have the experience to talk about them here.<\/p>\n
To help you get an idea of how much wire will be required, I created an Excel spreadsheet that calculates the amount for you.\u00a0 It only covers a few gauges, but it may be helpful to you.\u00a0 Note that the specifications of the wire on the Ebay listings were not used.\u00a0\u00a0 They appear to be off.\u00a0 I made resistance measurements that are used in the calculations.<\/p>\n
You’ll need to download it and have Excel to run it.<\/p>\n
You can download it HERE<\/a>.<\/p>\n
For those of you who don’t have Excel, here’s a quick table I did:<\/p>\n
WIRE LENGTHS IN INCHES<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n
![\"Drawing1\"](\"http:\/\/www.tasteyourjuice.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/Drawing1-300x237.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\n